food

Eats, beverages, rains, and observations…

Over the course of the last few weeks, I’ve enjoyed a wide variety of things throughout East Africa. For instance, in Rwanda the fruit and vegetables are the freshest I have EVER had – things like fruit juice is on a different level here comprised of the most scrumptious, natural and they can be found everywhere from the side of the road to all restaurants. Thus far, the passion fruit and green oranges seem to be my favorite at the moment. Yes, green oranges! They are green on the outside, but orange on the inside. The passion fruits here are rough looking with a tough skin, but an internal goodness that can quench your thirst with a spoonful. With almost every meal some type of fruit juice is available and I have come to enjoy whatever people recommend I try… This led me to “jack” fruit, a strange-looking fruit that required me to use petroleum jelly first on my hands and then also to remove these HUGE seeds. I’d never seen it and I wonder if I can find it anywhere else but here in East Africa. I know I will find pineapple back home, however the pineapple here is the juiciest I have probably ever tasted since it is rich yellow in color and just as soon as you cut into it your hands will be rewarded with succulent juices (and it serves as a nice smell on your hands for the rest of the day despite washing repeatedly).

Not to be outdone, the meat in Uganda has tantalized my senses especially the juicy roadside meat on a stick. The pork here is unbelievable and readily available while on a drive on a Boda-boda motorbike or along a walk down the road. Also of note is the beef and I am looking to try some goat over the course of the next few days. Meats are complimented by Pili Pili Kenyan chili sauce which will provide a nice New Mexico chili fix, although at first, it is weird to get a hot sauce from something that appears to be an eyedropper; the stuff can stand in as a nice replacement for a short term fix. In Bujumbura, Burundi, the freshwater Sigala fish is pretty good prepared with fresh onions and gravy looking sauce. As is freshwater Nile Perch in Kampala.

In each country, the buffet is the option of choice if possible. In Rwanda, the initial buffet is a mere 1,500 Rwandan Francs, equaling about one US dollar. I did make an initial faux pas by getting my plate of rice, banana-type dishes and then I came to the grilled meat section and not knowing the local food etiquette, I placed multiple pieces of meat when each portion was an individual piece of meat. Minor problem, but I was only charged for the additional pieces (and starred at in horror by the workers) which increased my cost for dinner to slightly under 5 US dollars including a cold Fanta. I would later learn that in Rwanda food is not consumed in public and I would assume it is because not everyone has access to food the way that people in the US or other countries do. For instance, in Uganda, one can easily live off of the great roadside food stands. I am enjoying this ‘fast food’ options. Also readily available in each country are eggs and bread-type options. The “Rolex” is a cross between a tortilla and roti with a hint of crepes, but whatever it is made of it is pretty good as a burrito type handheld delight.

Each meal easily consists of a variety of bananas cooked in every imaginable way from baked, to fried, to boiled to broiled to grilled. In some instances, they have the taste of whatever type of sauce is applied to them. In other settings, they serve as a potato type option, although the potatoes that grow here are plentiful and delicious in their own right. What is tasty is applying whatever sauce comes with them. Sometimes it is a fresh tomato paste or sauce, sometimes it’s who knows what, but I can assure you it will be pretty good. In most meals, greens or carrots are part of the diet, plus I can’t stress the use of bananas as well as Ugali which is definitely an acquired taste. Of note, hands are acceptable eating utensils in many places and forks are available for those who need them. The exception, of course, markets and alongside the road…

There is a striking difference when it comes to beverage options. I assumed that since some of the world’s best coffee comes from Kenya that Kenyans would be big coffee drinkers. However, it is quite the opposite. In Kenya and throughout East Africa most of the coffee is harvested and shipped away. Most East Africans are in fact NOT coffee drinkers, which coincidentally have led to my discovery of new love, African Tea. African tea consists of tea grown locally here in Africa, plus milk, plus ginger. I now believe I have found a new ‘love’ and I can only hope to be able to recreate this wonderful elixir.

And finally, I want to end with the rain (and probably of the main reasons for the great fruits and vegetables grown here, not to be outdone by the rich, dark red soils found throughout East Africa). March officially starts the rainy season in East Africa, although I am told that the weather patterns continue to change and act weird, hmm – coincidence? But, that is another topic for another time… I have experienced rain and then I have experienced East African rain. In Rwanda at Volcano National Park, I was hit with a severe (By Greg’s unofficial standards) downpour halfway through my gorilla trekking experience then I also experienced the soft drizzle in Burundi to a nice and steady rain in Uganda. In each case, you get undercover like some of the fortunate locals. In other cases you can just hum to yourself Singing in the Rain, just singing in the rain… For me, I find myself continually reminded, “you are in East Africa, enjoy the rain, enjoy the ride…” In any case, I am being blessed…